22.9.07

Exploring Burgundy and Champagne

Following non-stop rain in Paris during the whole August, a weekend escape to Burgundy and Champagne proved to be like a sun ray in the grey sky. On the way to Beaune, a Burgundian wine capital, the clouds started clearing out and the town met us with sunshine and warmth. Beaune charmed us with its stone houses, flower embellishments and wine stores where one can taste various wines. It must be interesting when the yearly wine auction takes place in its historical l'Hotel Dieu, a former hospital with impressive design.


Driving along Cote d'Or we saw many wineries and stopped to enjoy a refreshing glass of Chablis in one of cafes in Nuits Saint Georges. Wine tasting in wine houses there is quite expensive since the area produces a lot of grand cru wines.
It took us some time to find the Chateau de Pont Bernard which I reserved for a night from Gites de France. The fairy-tale mansion was well hidden in the Burgundian countryside. A young family who owns the house renovated it over twelve years and now it looks like a castle from the past. The owners were very hospitable and made us feel at home, especially when they served us coffee and tea with home cooked bread and le pain d'epices, a traditional cake with spices, in a sun kissed terrace by the swimming pool. Besides le pain d'epices, other traditional food to try in Burgundy is boeuf a Bourguignon and Escargots a la Bourguignonne and cheeses, brandy-soaked Epoisses and Bleu de Bresse.

On the way to Champagne, we visited a secluded UNESCO world heritage site Abbey de Fontenoy, one of the oldest cistercian monasteries, founded in 1118. Located in a middle of a forest, the nicely renovated abbey radiated the spirit of tranquility and holiness.

The champagne route across vineyards was especially picturesque. Another lucky discovery in Gites de France was a bed and breakfast in the middle of champagne vineyards. It is owned by a family running Champagne Rogge – Cereser business. The stone house with modern design bedrooms and bathrooms started running about a year ago. It was an amazing feeling to sit back and relax and drink champagne while looking at the vineyards from which this fizzy drink was produced. Next morning we had a tour with a passionate account on how the family produces their small scale champagne. Now I will appreciate drinking champagne even more when I know how many various stages and processes go into its production.

In the end of our trip, was a visit to the renowned Reims Cathedral, a crowning place of French kings for many years. From Reims, we brought back light rose biscuits to be had with champagne. We also stopped by Epernay, a capital of Champagne region, where major Champagne houses like Moet and Chandon are located on the avenue de Champagne. The town did not impress us much since it did not have a quaint atmosphere of Beaune.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Greetings from a Burgundian expat in Shizuoka, Japan!
Great blog! It reads like a magazine!
I am definitely biaised, but the fact is that Champagne is not as welcoming and rural as Burgundy. After all the Champagne Houses buy their grapes whereas in Burgundy they grow them first!
I actually come from the Cote Chalonnaise, Givry exactly where my family moved over 30 years ago from Chalon Sur Saone.
One of my brothers is actually a chef-restaurateur in Bresse.
Expect me to visit and comment again!
Cheers,
Robert-Gilles