My Egyptian Experience

While attending the High Level Group Meeting on Education for All in Cairo, I caught a glimpse of the ancient culture but will definitely have to come back to have a deeper experience. The main highlights in Cairo were: the traditional dinner in the colorful market of Khan-Khalili, Nile dinner cruise with a belly dancer and excursion to Giza pyramids. The masses of tourists everywhere were ruining the experience but then of course this was expected.

After the meetings were over, I traveled from Cairo on a bus to join my husband at the resort El-Gouna by the Red Sea. By mistake, instead of getting on a tourist bus I managed to get on a local bus! Thus, I really stood out being foreign and blond as well as one of the few women on a bus. Later on, I heard that only few years ago no foreigners were allowed on local buses since it was not safe. I did not know any of this then so was quite shocked when at different check points throughout the trip armed men came into the bus and started checking the luggage and identity cards of the people on the bus. I was glad when a man seated by me explained that as a foreigner I am immune to any check-ups and therefore am not obliged to show my ID. The search was supposed to identify any explosives and ensure the safety of the passengers. He told me many interesting things about his country and his life. He finished university education but due to a shortage of jobs in his field, instead of becoming a teacher he had to become a fisherman working far in the south near Sudan's border. Nevertheless, since his family lives in Cairo he often has to travel a long way with many connections on a bus. There were times that for unexplained reason he along with other Egyptian men was checked in the street in Cairo and even taken to prison.
When we arrived to Hurgada, he helped me to get on another bus to El-Gouna since taxis were too expensive. However, once the bus became empty, suddenly the bus stopped and the conductor declared that the last stop is in Hurgada and if I want to go to El-Gouna I have to pay a special price. Since the asked price was higher than for a taxi and I knew that a fare for a local bus is much lower, I argued that I have to pay less. After some haggling I was afraid that the driver would take me god knows where so I agreed to pay the price. On the way, suddenly some men stopped the bus and gave money to the conductor. I was supposed to be the only one on the bus so got really scared and started asking who these men where. The conductor said that they were his friends. Then why were they paying him? Just in case, I was pretending to call my husband and stressing that he is waiting for me in El-Gouna. When we arrived to El-Gouna and the driver was taking me to the hotel, the men on the bus started shouting at the driver. Then the truth started dawning on me…. This was a bus for El-Gouna hospitality workers living in surrounding areas and they were late for work because the usual route was changed. Before going to Egypt, I promised myself that no one will be able to cheat me but unfortunately it didn't work….
After my crazy experience on the bus, El-Gouna seemed like a paradise with colorful Arabic style buildings and little bridges over numerous lagoons. However, after a few days we started missing authentic Egyptian experience. The resort is mostly full of English and German tourists, who come there for sun-bathing, snorkeling and diving. The only Egyptians are the ones working in the hotels and shops. Available entertainment is adjusted for tourist taste. Dressed in traditional clothes we had barbeque on the beach while watching African dances and, at the "oazis," a traditional beduin village in the desert, dined while watching belly-dancing and other local dances, smoked shisha and drank sweet tea and coffee cooked over the fire.

The most memorable sight was witnessing a traditional dance tannoura on a few occasions (photo above). In Cairo, the performer whirled non-stop in a circle while putting a sword on his head, making various arrangements using colorful drums. The skirts the man was wearing became full displaying the richness of colors. In the end, the top of the skirt is taken off and whirled by the hand. The explanation of the dance is that moving in circles, the dancer alleviating his wordily burdens and reaching ecstasy in a symbolical attempt to approach heaven. In El-Gouna, this dance was amazingly performed by a little boy, a growing star. The gorgeous belly-dancer who performed on the same occasion was also unbelievable – her costumes were exquisite and her moving belly seemed to make music sounds.